The Gretsch Pages: Discussions: General tech questions: Installing a soundpost?

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Installing a soundpost?

- Rated: 40 ↑
Sep 6, 2008 3:01 p.m. tartan phantom:

I'm thinking about installing a soundpost in my Robelli RB1955 (same guitar as a Gretsch G3131) but I'm not sure what type of wood to use.

It's a 17" all maple body & top with conventional bracing (no trestles). I don't really have feedback problems, I'm just seeking a little more note definition.

My question is: should the soundpost material be the same as the body material (maple in this case), or should I use a livelier wood such as spruce or cedar? Or for that matter, will it make any perceptible difference? also, how large in diameter should the soundpost be in relation to the body size?

FWIW, I'll be handcarving and fitting it myself.
- Rated: 20 ↑
Sep 6, 2008 3:04 p.m. TAG4:

You can always "write" in an atta boy (girl) in text form.

TAG4
- Rated: 40 ↑
Sep 6, 2008 3:07 p.m. tartan phantom:

OK, you lost me there....
- Rated: 204 ↑
Sep 6, 2008 5:39 p.m. Proteus:

tp, when we had soundpost discussions a couple years back, with guys who had experimented a lot with them, the consensus was that it's such a small piece of wood, with such small surface area, that species wouldn't matter much.

Classic Gretsch soundposts are pillar-shaped, about an inch x 1/2 inch, with feet at top and bottom.

But from that same old discussion, the consensus seemed to be that a round 1" dowel would serve just the same purpose.

I didn't know you had an RB-1955. Me too, you probably know. Do you still have the stock pups?

I hadn't thought about putting a post in mine, but now that you mention it, that guitar would be a great candidate, since it could benefit from a little more focus in tone, a bit more clarity.

Let me know how it works!
- Rated: 40 ↑
Sep 6, 2008 6:07 p.m. tartan phantom:

Yup, I have an orange one. I had it with me at the Nashville Jam, but you were so busy with sound systems and G-brands that you didn't get a chance to check it out. Other than the strap buttons, it's straight "stock", right down to the original Dumbuckers. Which I think are actually perfect for this guitar-- big and jazzy in tone.

I'm gonna try a few different types of wood, I have a luthier friend who builds violins and mandolins, I'm sure I can get some suitable woods from her.
- Rated: 18 ↑
Sep 7, 2008 6:41 a.m. Century Bob:

I had a soundpost installed in my Guild X160 reduce feedback. It really helped. The tone was for the most part the same afterwards. If anything it may seem a little more focused. Since these are plywood guitars materials dont seem to mater. I used dowel to see if it would work but switched to a nice carved maple so it looks factory. It should be placed directly under the bridge.
- Rated: 40 ↑
Sep 7, 2008 8:27 a.m. tartan phantom:

Yeah, I was wondering about placement. On the violin family, it is usually placed immediately behind the bridge on treble side. This placement improves the treble response of the instrument. In a before/after comparison test on a violin, the difference in tone focus and clarity is amazing. But then again, most violins are made from solid woods, not laminates.

But the ones I've seen in guitars are usually centered, and placed directly under the bridge.
- Rated: 10 ↑
Sep 8, 2008 3:23 p.m. Just Dropped In :

Not sure if you're going to glue it in, but if you do, use something like Duco cement. It will hold, but be pliable enough not to cause any problems in case you ever want to remove the post/s. Like Brylcreem, a little dab'll do ya.

Oh, let me add, poplar dowel rod is a pretty good wood to use too.
- Rated: 96 ↑
Sep 8, 2008 5:56 p.m. Setzer:

Hey Tartan, I asked Don Butler about this years ago here and he gave me some advice and I ended up using two Spruce rods under the bridge. I liked it so much that I glued them in:

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