I can notch it and I have a correct template From Zuma. I'll email you and also link you to a number of the signpost images. Mine are thicker because I cut them in decal form but I have links to a few that are correct in layout and line width.
Andy's "57" Chet Atkins 6121 Jet. Watch as it gets repaired.
« » Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12-
- Rated: 94 ↑
Apr 28, 2008 1:13 p.m. Setzer:
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 28, 2008 2:45 p.m. JackDaniels:
Cool. Sounds good.
-
- Rated: 4 ↑
Apr 28, 2008 3:24 p.m. hypnofonic:
thanks paul! i am going to convert it to an illustrator EPS format so i can stretch it resize it without loosing any of its 'crispness'.
no jack cups anywhere. my father in law is gonna make one out of stainless on his lathe. for now it will work...
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:12 p.m. JackDaniels:
Well after a long conversation with Andy this morning, we decided the final fate of this ole girl. We decided we should rebind the back of the guitar too. Nows the time, and the back had some issues. So here is a shot of some of the problem spots:
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:16 p.m. JackDaniels:
The issue with binding the back is two fold. It has a miter'd joint (45 degree angle at the neck/cutway spot and it is just an inch or two longer all the way around the back, then it is the front. This is due to the back not having a break in the binding line where the fingerboard is. So it has to be done it two sections. A center seam at the bottom is best. So off comes the old binding. This shot has the lower binding off, but the up binding is still on. If you look close you can see the 45 degree angle cut. Getting that gap closed can be problematic.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:19 p.m. JackDaniels:
Getting the binding off the back was really tought. A lot more glue was used. Also, the back is solid mahogany where as the top was mahogany with a maple plywood cap that shows end grain in the route. So the binding did not stick nearly as well ....but well enough.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:22 p.m. JackDaniels:
As they say...out with the old, and in with the new. I added a solid black band around the guitar in one piece...cause I had extra long lengths of it. Then I pre-bent the larger w/b/w binding around the back with some heat. I let it sit for about and hour to cool down taped to the guitar. Once cool, I cut the 45 degree angles but left the tails long.
You can see here that I taped the corner really well to hold the joint tight.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:25 p.m. JackDaniels:
Here is a shot of the binding being prebent. You can see how I left the tail long. when I glued the first piece in, I cut that edge to be centered over the tail piece. I cleaned that edge up with a file to make it nice and sharp.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:31 p.m. JackDaniels:
Once the left side was on, I worked the right side. I left a about 4" unglued. I then carefully cut the other edge to the center seam. I left it about .020 long. I cleaned it up with a file and kept pushing it into place until it was just right. To me, just right meant, maybe a hair too long, but not more than a hair. So maybe .005 long? When you glue the last chunk down, you have to ever so slightly snap the piece into place. Now, mind you, just a tiny snap into place, not a lot. Otherwise it will bow somewhere else. I did this so that when I applied the glue and tape it in place around the rest of the edge, the two joints push together pretty firm. I then added a touch of Duco cement to the end so that it sort of melts the two ends together. Worked great...I hope.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 5:34 p.m. JackDaniels:
Good think I order all the extra binding Andy! The top was one piece, the back two. I ordered four chunks of the celuliod just in case. Glad I did.
-
- Rated: 3 ↑
Apr 30, 2008 11:18 p.m. awfurby:
This thread just keeps getting better and better .
-
- Rated: 47 ↑
May 1, 2008 4:34 a.m. Ratrod:
I haven't replied in this thread for a while but I'm follwing it almost daily.
Great work, man.
-
- Rated: 12 ↑
May 1, 2008 4:46 a.m. Drew Morrison:
awfurby said: This thread just keeps getting better and better .
Yes, I do believe the halcyon days have returned.
Thanks JD & Andy for sharing this with us.
Yours
Drew
-
- Rated: 37 ↑
May 1, 2008 6:13 a.m. Nobody:
Press the attack!
We're all right back here behind you...
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 1, 2008 9:56 a.m. JackDaniels:
A quick look this morning shows that the binding looks great and we absolutely made the right decision to do the back too. It looks unified and complete. Over the next day or two or three, I will scrape the binding flush to the back and sides. I will then use some grain filler around the edges of the wood where the edges were jagged or gapped from the removal/old work etc. Then back to the neck reset and re-glue process. Whoa! That will be cool to see the neck back on this guitar.
-
- Rated: 0 ↑
May 1, 2008 11:40 a.m. BobK:
Any tricks to giving the new binding an aged look?
Bob
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 1, 2008 12:08 p.m. JackDaniels:
Yep. If it is celuliod, it takes stain quite well as it is a little porious. Sand the binding to final shape. Wipe on stain and whipe it off. It will start to darken in the pores but not on the surface. ABS biding is not porious and does not react to stain nearly as well. So you mostly have to rely on amber tint in your lacquer. Also consider using orange shelac as your primer. It is safe under lacquer and definitely leaves an amber aged look to binding of both types. Brush on using a dry-brush method should work ok, or spray on for complete coverage. (dry brush method is basically dipping your brush in the shelac, then drain as much of the shelac off the brush and back into the can as possible. You can also use a scrap board to run the brush on to remove shelac from the bristles. Then with your almost dry brush, gentley brush accross the surface to add material. Use your artistic talents).
Also old binding looses its sharp coners. So a slightly rounded edge (soft edge) will have a more aged look.
JD
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 2, 2008 1:50 p.m. JackDaniels:
Ok today has Major updates;
1) The back binding looks great. While the pics I will post are still pretty "raw" looking, you will see what I mean. (Raw as in, the finish has been sanded and scraped around the binding edges. That makes them look really rough. A shot of clear nitro makes that go away and blends it back in with the shiny back.
It's hard to see and even harder to get a picture of the binding due to the white and black stripes pixilating.
2)The binding has been prepaired enought that I was able to glue the neck back on. All remaining work can be done with the guitar back as one piece. (I could have done a little more body work before gluing the neck, but at some point, I would have still had to stop and glue it on to continue. It was better to do that at the end of a day so that I could continue the next....as opposed to the middle of the day where I would have had to stop for the day).
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 2, 2008 1:59 p.m. JackDaniels:
Back up just a little bit. I see the picture of the back makes the binding look dirty and rough. It may be a tad bit dirty and rough, the pic makes it a ton worse than it is. Once whiped down with naptha it looked great. The white markes around the binding on the back is where the old nitro was scraped and dulled up. Once it is sprayed again, it was gloss back up. Also the back binding has a little "aging" material rubbed on it there too. I will be sanding and removing some but not all of that. So the binding will be a little brownish yellow when I am done, but not dirty looking.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 2, 2008 2:02 p.m. JackDaniels:
The neck joints look great. Here is a super tight neck joint:
I am really happy with that! The other side is also very tight, but if you remember I had some trouble due to the second reset this had. The guitar had a little filler in the joint. When I removed the filler, the ends had been rouned off leaving the joint a little open. This is how it turned out. Again, it is raw and no finish has been applied over it yet, so take it with a grain of salt. The dark line is where the old filler was. The joint is super tight and not open, but it looks like it in the pic.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 2, 2008 2:06 p.m. JackDaniels:
Ok Andy, here is your guitar all back in one piece after about 2 months! Still a ways to go before its shot with clear coat, but it is good to see it all in one piece!
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 2, 2008 2:10 p.m. JackDaniels:
And the money shot! Here it is with the neck set with about 3/4" - 11/16" bridge height. That is a full 1/4" gain by just mounting the neck in the joint correctly....and of course setting the heel angle etc... Remember, that is the neck height if the string were laying on the fingerboard. It will be raised another 1/8" give or take to set the action.
-
- Rated: 28 ↑
May 2, 2008 2:21 p.m. JackDaniels:
Oh yea, that is also the shot of the top and back binding in view. Should look great under a coat of clear.
-
- Rated: 94 ↑
May 2, 2008 4:45 p.m. Setzer:
Lookin' good Joe! I just double checked my '57 and it is 3/4" at the bridge also.
-
- Rated: 4 ↑
May 2, 2008 5:02 p.m. hypnofonic:
Joe its looking excellent! Check out the binding color match from the neck to the body binding.. its pretty dang close!!!
